Walking The Pennine Way When I Was Eleven: Stage 13 Dufton to Garrigill

Start:  Dufton

Finish: Garrigill

Distance: 16 miles

Total Distance Walked: 174 miles

If the previous day had been notable for its length, this one would be so for its altitude.  The Pennine Way reaches its highest point, Cross Fell, on this stage. 

We left the campsite and were soon climbing out of Dufton on a good track between dry stone walls and fields.  The path rose quickly but it didn't seem too testing on the firm track and I didn't feel stiff after the long day's walk to Dufton.

We left the fields and entered the more exposed slopes on Knock Fell and Great Dun Fell.  The top of Great Dun fell is easy to spot all the way up as there is a large weather and radar station close to the summit.  This has recorded some of the strongest winds ever noted in England.  The area is the only one in the country to have its own named wind, The Helm, which occurs here alone.

The weather was favourable for us and from the top of Great Dun Fell we could see our way ahead clearly.  Firstly we descended to Little Dun Fell.  This was one of the boggiest places of the whole walk, although only for a short distance.  My father went up to his knees in the mire for a step or two, I went in up to my calves but my sister, being lighter, just skipped across without sinking in.

After Little Dun Fell we made the final acsent to the top of Cross Fell.  The Fell has a bad reputation for inclement weather and since our walk I have read several accounts of people having problems finding their way.  We had no such difficulties and reached the plateau at the summit where we reached the summit cairn.  Cross Fell is the highest hill in England outside the Lake District and at 2930 feet is only exceeded by a handful of fells there.

While we were at the summit we again met the lads we had seen in Crowden.  We had lunch and then began the descent, which proved much trickier than the ascent.  The way off the summit went down quite a steep slope which was covered in rocks and boulders.  We had to pick our way through them for about half an hour before reaching more amenable terrain.  

From there the way was straightforward and we soon reached a long track which went for a few miles down to the village of Garrigill.  It was easy going but did start to drag a little after an hour.  

We had thought about going on to Alston but after the late finish the day before we decided to stop in the village.  The village post office did B and B and we stayed there.



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